The Complete Guide to Virginia’s Chesapeake Bay

There are many places in Virginia that draw visitors from all over the world, from national parks offering acres of untouched beauty to exciting cities packed with incredible dining, inspiring museums, and unique local culture. But if you’re looking to experience the allure of coastal Virginia, the Chesapeake Bay is one place you need to explore. 

As the largest estuary in the United States, the Chesapeake Bay supports a diverse ecosystem that includes thousands of fish and plant species, as well as about 18 million people who live along the Chesapeake Bay watershed.

Put simply, the Bay impacts every aspect of life for Virginians, from the water we drink and the food we eat to the very air we breathe. And in addition to supporting the environment of Virginians, the Chesapeake Bay is an incredible spot to relax and play during a Virginia vacation. Learn about this amazing coastal waterway and discover why the Chesapeake Bay is a top Mid-Atlantic vacation destination. 

The Origins of the Chesapeake Bay

The Chesapeake Bay is believed to have been formed by a meteor that impacted along the Mid-Atlantic coast about 35 million years ago. The impact site separated the mainland of the East Coast from the Delmarva Peninsula, with the Eastern Shore of Virginia forming the southern tip of the peninsula. 

Rising sea levels at the end of the last ice age (10,000+ years ago) flooded the meteor impact site, forming the Chesapeake Bay as we know it, which spans approximately 200 miles from top to bottom, 2.8 miles at its narrowest point, and 30 miles at its widest point. 

Today, the Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries have a total of 11,684 miles of shoreline—more than the entire West Coast of the United States! 

A Brief History of the Indigenous People of the Chesapeake Bay 

Since the Chesapeake Bay’s formation, Indigenous peoples have established communities along the shores. The first inhabitants of the region are referred to as Paleoindians, arriving in the area more than 15,000 years ago from other parts of North America and drawn to the Bay by the abundant wildlife found along the waterways. These first groups were nomadic, building nonpermanent dwellings that allowed them to easily pick up and move to follow food sources and avoid harsh weather. 

The Woodland peoples became the dominant Indigenous group of the Chesapeake region beginning about 3,000 years ago, harvesting from massive oyster beds and catching herring, shad, striped bass, and other native fish. They also hunted wildlife in the forests further inland and foraged edible plants like cattails and yellow pond lilies from the freshwater marshes. 

Before the English set foot in North America, some 50,000 Indigenous groups called the Chesapeake Bay home. The name of the Bay even comes from these peoples–the word “Chesepiooc” is an Algonquian word that refers to a village at a big river, and the Chesepian people were a group that inhabited the area that is part of the current Hampton Roads region of Virginia. 

English Colonists Arrive in the Chesapeake Bay

When Captain John Smith and other early settlers made land at what is now First Landing at the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay, they began writing about their encounters with the Indigenous people. Smith immediately set out to explore the shores of the Bay, spending two years traveling up and around the coastline and documenting his journey. He found primarily Algonquian-speaking communities living by the shores, with smaller areas of Iroquoian and Siouan-speaking groups spread throughout. 

But while the inhabitants of coastal Virginia mainly spoke one language, there were many distinct tribes, each with their own leaders. Larger tribes included the Powhatan, Piscataway, and the Nanticoke, as well as the Pamunkey and Mattaponi. 

The arrival of European settlers to America caused the Indigenous populations to fall drastically.  There were many reasons for the population decline, but violent conflicts and disease were the largest contributors, and colonists drove many Indigenous groups off lands held for centuries by their ancestors over the following decades. Throughout the 19th century, the Indigenous peoples of Virginia were displaced or assimilated, and their rich cultures were largely forgotten.

Oral tradition was the most cherished form of cultural knowledge within these groups, and the distinct histories and cultures of the individual tribes were devastated. The only clues to the forgotten histories of some Indigenous groups today are artifacts found at archaeological sites like Historic Jamestowne, which tell an incomplete story of these peoples. 

As of 2024, the Commonwealth of Virginia formally recognizes 11 tribes; among these, the Pamunkey tribe is the first of the Indigenous peoples in Virginia recognized by the federal government.

Barriers to Travel Across the Chesapeake Bay

For more than 250 years, the Chesapeake Bay was a significant barrier for travel between mainland Virginia and the Eastern Shore. Beginning in 1933, the Virginia Ferry Corporation started regular vehicular ferry service, utilizing a single ferry that made six one-way crossings every day. About twenty years later, the Virginia General Assembly set up a ferry commission, then acquired the private ferry corporation in 1956 to improve service. The fleet size was increased to seven ships that made a total of 90 one-way crossings each day, carrying millions of passengers across the Bay on an 85-minute cruise. 

Yet even after these drastic changes, the ferry service was not able to keep up with increased traffic. To solve the problem, the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel was built in just 42 months. A modern engineering marvel, this 17.6-mile roadway spans the entire Chesapeake Bay and is considered one of the seven man-made wonders of the world. Once the Bridge-Tunnel opened, the ferry service was discontinued. 

Cheat sheet for the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel

Crossing the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel takes approximately 25 minutes one-way without traffic, and the tunnel is currently undergoing construction for a parallel tunnel that is anticipated to be complete in 2026. The toll rates vary; initial crossing of the bridge for regular cars is $16 during the off-season and $21 for peak season (Friday-Sunday from May 15-September 15). If you are returning within 24 hours, you’ll pay a $6 fee for the return crossing during off-season and $1 for peak season. The toll facility accepts cash, credit cards, and E-ZPass. 

Additionally, for travelers who are fearful of bridges and tunnels, the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel offers a scheduled drive-across service at no extra cost (the customer is still responsible for the toll fees and 24-hour advance notice is requested). 

Unique Ecology & Biodiversity of the Chesapeake Bay

The Chesapeake Bay is a large and complex ecosystem with a variety of wildlife habitats, from forests and wetlands to rivers and the bay estuary. These ecosystems support more than 3,600 plant and animal species, including 348 species of finfish, 173 species of shellfish, and 2,700+ plant species. 

The brackish waters of the Chesapeake Bay, created when the freshwater from the rivers mix with the saltwater of the Atlantic Ocean, vary in salinity depending on location, and this allows for a wide array of fish to live in the Bay. 

A few key species for the Chesapeake Bay include blue crab, eastern oysters, striped bass (also called rockfish), and Atlantic menhaden, a small, nutrient-packed fish that are vitally important to the Chesapeake Bay’s food chain.

In addition to more than 350 varieties of fish living in the bay waters, different types of birds inhabit the Bay throughout the year, from bald eagles and ospreys to waterfowl like ducks and swans and migratory birds such as sanderlings and ruby-throated hummingbirds. The beaches that border the Chesapeake Bay support some of the largest shorebird populations in the Western Hemisphere, including red knot and piping plover. The Bay is also a major stopover for waterfowl, and every year, there are over a million waterfowl that winter along the Chesapeake Bay. 

The Importance of Oysters in the Chesapeake Bay

One of the most significant species to the Chesapeake Bay is Crassostrea Virginica, commonly called eastern oysters. These shellfish grow together in large reefs which provide food, cover, and habitats for fish, crabs, barnacles, and other aquatic species. 

These oysters support other marine life and act as filter feeders, removing light-blocking algae and excess nutrients such as nitrogen and phosphorus from the water. A single adult oyster can filter approximately 50 gallons of water each day. 

Without the oysters to clean the water, light would not be able to penetrate, and the grasses that thrive within the Bay would struggle to grow. A lack of healthy grass beds means less hiding places for juvenile fish and crabs, who would be easy prey to the larger predators of the water. 

Therefore, a healthy oyster population in the Chesapeake Bay is critical for several reasons: cleaner water, larger fish and crab populations, and healthier marine grass beds.

The Chesapeake Bay’s Ecological Crisis

Ecological surveys in the 1980s and 1990s revealed a grim truth: oyster populations sat at only 1-2% of their historic levels. Before the decades-long population decline, oysters could filter the entire Chesapeake Bay in about a week, but with the small percentage left, it would take more than a year. 

Unsustainable harvesting techniques utilized between 1860 and 1920 left only a quarter of the population. The idea of sustainability was not common among American farmers at the time, and watermen were not immune from the shortsighted approach to harvest. 

As human populations along the coastline began to grow, so did pollution levels. Nitrogen and phosphorus used in farming seeped from the coastal farms into the Bay, which caused algae levels to rise; oysters found large swaths of the water uninhabitable due to low oxygen levels. 

Finally, in the 1950s, marine life in the Chesapeake Bay suffered from two diseases caused by parasites that target oysters. While harmless to humans, the diseases decimated the oyster populations.

The combination of these three problems left the oyster beds of the Chesapeake Bay at dangerously low levels, and without a robust oyster population to help filter the water, the Bay suffered from heavy pollution issues that affected other marine populations, as well. Scientists feared that Virginia’s oysters were doomed. 

The Virginia Oyster Resurgence

The 1990s became a turning point for oyster populations in the Chesapeake Bay. Safer farming practices and laws targeting pollution dumping helped clean up the watershed areas. Sustainability in oyster harvesting became a focus for watermen fishing the Bay, and restoration efforts continued into the 21st century that offer hope for the native oyster populations. 

The career of a waterman was often one handed down from generation to generation; when oyster levels declined sharply in the early 20th century, many young watermen decided to find new careers, causing the passed-down practice to almost disappear along with the oysters. But in the early 2000s, Virginia’s coastal communities saw young watermen and women returning to the family tradition of oyster farming. 

The lessons learned from the previous century were not lost on these farmers, though, and reseeding oyster beds became regular practice for these new watermen. A state-supposed replenishment program aids the farmers in their work, replacing used oyster shells on harvest areas, which give baby oysters (called spat) a place to attach and grow. 

An evaluation done in February 2023 found that oysters were at the highest levels in a generation, and Virginia’s wild oyster harvests have stabilized at around 600,000 bushels over the past few years. Several national organizations, including the National Wildlife Federation and the NOAA Fisheries (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) continue their work to help restore the ecosystems in and around the Chesapeake Bay. 

Want to learn about Virginia’s oyster harvesting techniques and the life of a waterman? There are several hands-on tours available along the Chesapeake Bay, including Hatchery Tours and Aquaculture Farm Tours at Oyster Seed Holdings on Gwynn’s Island. 

Head to the Tides Inn in Irvington for a more upscale experience–book a stay at the boutique inn and attend their Virginia Oyster Academy, which includes an educational class, a boat tour of the waters to demonstrate oyster harvesting techniques, and an oyster-centric culinary experience when you return to the inn. 

Coastal Destinations Along the Chesapeake Bay: Where to Stay, Play, & Eat

Whether you’re looking for a waterfront town on Virginia’s Northern Neck or want to visit the Eastern Shore, you’ll find tons of charming towns located along the Chesapeake Bay. Here are a few suggestions for where to stay, eat, and play when visiting these idyllic waterfront regions along the Chesapeake Bay.

The Northern Neck

Towns on the Northern Neck—Kilmarnock | Irvington | Colonial Beach | Warsaw | White Stone | Reedville

Where to Stay:

• Hope & Glory Inn–Quaint B&B with rooms, cottages, and an on-site micro-winery
• The Tides Inn–Waterfront resort with wildlife and specialty amenities
• Kilmarnock Inn–Collection of luxurious cottages named for Virginia's presidential history
• Riverview Inn–Modern inn with comfortable rooms and retro vibes

Where to Eat:

• Small Town Burger–Community joint with lobster rolls, burgers, and dogs 
• The Local–Coffee spot serving breakfast and lunch
• Dredge–Relaxed seafood and oyster house with dog-friendly patio
• Adrift–Upscale coastal eatery for seafood and cocktails
• Drift Seafood + Muse Pizzeria & Arcade–An elevated oyster bar and an easygoing pizzeria share a location in Colonial Beach
• The Colonnade–Intimate fine dining at the Hope & Glory Inn
• Salt & Meadow–On-site restaurant at The Tides Inn focused on sourcing local ingredients from farms, orchards, and waters
• Willaby’s Cafe–Comfort food and craft beverages in White Stone

What to Do:

• Dig for shark teeth along the beaches of Westmoreland State Park
• Spot bald eagles at Caledon State Park, which has one of the largest concentrations of American bald eagles on the east coast
• Visit Stratford Hall, the ancestral home of the Lees, the only brothers to sign the Declaration of Independence
• Tour Menokin, one of the best documented 18th-century homes in America

The Middle Peninsula

Towns on the Middle Peninsula—Gloucester | Urbanna | Deltaville | Tappahannock

Where to Stay:

• The Inn at Warner Hall–Charming B&B located on waterfront estate originally created in 1642
• The Inn at Tabbs Creek–Relaxed and romantic bayside retreat
• The Chesapeake Inn–Elegant, easygoing inn with garden and boutique

Where to Eat:

• Merroir–Small plate tasting room with creative seafood menu
• Small Town Burger Urbanna–Lobster rolls, burgers, and dogs
• Urbanna Seafood Market & Raw Bar–Casual market with fresh fish, clams, mussels, spreads, and salads
• Deltaville Tap & Raw Bar–Lively waterfront restaurant with seafood and craft beverages

What to Do:

• Head to Machicomoco State Park, the first park celebrating and honoring the Indigenous peoples of Virginia
• Attend the Urbanna Oyster Festival in November
• Sample coastal Virginia wine at Zoll Vineyards

Hampton Roads

Towns in Hampton Roads—Yorktown | Norfolk | Hampton | Virginia Beach | Newport News | Chesapeake | Williamsburg

Where to Stay:

• Great Wolf Lodge–Family adventure indoor water park and resort 
• Cavalier Resort–Collection of ocean properties including the Historic Cavalier Hotel 
• The Glass Light Hotel–Boutique hotel celebrating Virginia's art culture 
• Delta Hotel Virginia Beach Waterfront–Beachfront hotel with variety of suites and rooms 
• The Founders Inn & Spa–Secluded hotel with luxury spa 
• Kingsmill Resort–Resort with rooms, condos, cottages, and luxury estate

Where to Eat:

• Orion’s Roof–Modern, elegant eats on panoramic rooftop 
• Becca–Sophisticated restaurant with outdoor garden at the Historic Cavalier Hotel 
• Waterman’s Surfside Grille–Seafood and drinks from an oceanfront patio 
• Commune–Sustainable eatery serving new American fare 
• The Porch on Long Creek–Riverfront dining with Southern Coastal cuisine
• The Stockpot–Casual cafe specializing in soups 
• Luce–Intimate Italian restaurant with contemporary twists
• Water Street Grille–Local seafood, drinks, and live entertainment on the riverside
• Fin Seafood–Upscale seafood eatery with rotating seasonal menu
• Fuller’s Raw Bar–Raw oysters and seafood in an industrial-style setting
• Mango Mangeaux–Bistro with French, Creole, and neo-Soul influences
• Le Yaca–Atmospheric French restaurant in Hampton Roads
• Fat Canary–American eats, cheeses, and wines 

What to Do:

• Spend a day with the family at Busch Gardens Williamsburg
• Learn about America’s most historic moments at Colonial Williamsburg, Jamestown Settlement, & the American Revolution Museum at Yorktown
• Bike along the Virginia Beach Boardwalk
• Catch a sunset from a sailboat in Norfolk
• Experience the underwater world at the Virginia Aquarium & Marine Science Center
• See where the first colonists made landfall at First Landing State Park
• Take kids to the Grommet Island Park, a free and fully accessible playground
• Work on your tan at Buckroe Beach

The Eastern Shore of Virginia

Towns on the Eastern Shore—Cape Charles | Onanock | Chincoteague | Tangier Island

Where to Stay:

• Hotel Cape Charles–Sleek and social boutique hotel 
• The Northampton Hotel–Historic hotel with modern comforts
• The Inn at Onancock–Intimate, five-room B&B with thoughtful hosts
• Charlotte Hotel–Luxury boutique hotel constructed in 1907
• Key West Cottages–Charming, nautical-inspired cottages with views of the Chincoteague Bay
• Marina Bay Hotel & Suites–Waterfront hotel with private deck and elegant rooms 

Where to Eat:

• The Shanty–Sustainable seafood house started in 2012 
• Deadrise Italian Kitchen–Neighborhood brick oven pizza and seafood spot
• Cape Charles Coffee House–Renovated coffee cafe with breakfast dishes
• Mallards at the Wharf–Seasonal menu with live entertainment
• AJ’s on the Creek–Fresh seafood and scenic views
• Woody’s Serious Food–Beach-themed food truck serving barbecue and smoked chicken
• Pico Taqueria–Casual spot with artisanal tacos and sandwiches
• Island House Restaurant & Marina–Welcoming seafood restaurant overlooking the Barrier Islands

What to Do:

• Kayaking, biking, and swimming at Kiptopeke State Park
• Grab a local beer at Cape Charles Brewing Company
• Spend the day at the beach in Cape Charles
• See the wild ponies at Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge
• Paddle Your Glass Off Tour with Southeast Expeditions to kayak to a winery
• Paddle to the Barrier Islands with Burnham Guides
• Go hang gliding above the Chesapeake Bay

Outdoor Recreation on the Chesapeake Bay

The Chesapeake Bay allows for all the usual water activities, including fishing, boating, kayaking, and swimming, but the vast scenic coastline also offers hiking, bird watching, and sunbathing along the sandy beaches. If you’re looking to get out on the water and explore the coastal areas of the Chesapeake Bay, here are some outfitters that offer water sport equipment rentals, as well as marinas where you can dock your boat. 

Chesapeake Bay Paddleboard & Kayak Rentals

Northern Neck/Middle Peninsula

• Paddle On Kayak & Paddleboard Rentals–Kilmarnock, Urbanna, Windmill Point
• The Essex Inn–Tappahannock
• Beaverdam Park–Gloucester 
• Mattaponi Canoe & Kayak–Aylett
• Rappahannock Outdoor Adventures–Menokin

Hampton Roads

• Chesapean Outdoors–Virginia Beach
• Adventure Kayak & SUP–Chesapeake
• Norfolk Kayak Rentals–Norfolk 
• Tula Paddle Sports–Norfolk

Eastern Shore

• Burnham Guides Paddle & Bike–Onancock
• Southeast Expeditions–Cape Charles & Chincoteague 
• Chincoteague Island Outfitters–Chincoteague 
• Assateague Adventures Kayak Tours–Chincoteague 
• Sun Outdoors–Cape Charles 

Marinas on the Chesapeake Bay

Northern Neck/Middle Peninsula

• York River Yacht Haven–Gloucester 
• Windmill Point Marina–White Stone
• Reedville Marina–Reedville
• Ingram Bay Marina–Heathsville
• Horn Harbor Marina–Haywood
• Mobjack Bay Marina–North

Hampton Roads

• Salt Ponds Marina Resort–Hampton
• Leagasea Marine–Yorktown
• Deep Creek Landing Marina–Newport News
• Bay Point Marina–Norfolk 
• Cobb’s Marina–Norfolk 
• The Marina at Marina Shores–Virginia Beach
• Rudees Inlet Station Marina–Virginia Beach
• Kingsmill Marina–Williamsburg 

Eastern Shore

• Cape Charles Town Harbor & Marina–Cape Charles
• Wachapreague Town Marina–Wachapreague 
• Onancock Wharf & Marina–Onancock 

Now that you’ve discovered a little bit about the history of the Chesapeake Bay, the people who lived along its shores, and the multitude of places to eat, play, and stay, it’s time to plan your next getaway to this pristine coastal region.

Whether you stay in the Hampton Roads area, the Eastern Shore of Virginia, or the Northern Neck/Middle Peninsula, you’ll discover a waterfront paradise that will beckon you back time and again.